[1] '...her Barcelona quilted petticoat had a hole on either side for the convenience of rummaging two immense pockets, stuffed with books of all sizes.' Smith, John Thomas. 'A Book for a Rainy Day, or Recollections of the Events of the Last Sixty-Six Years'. London: Richard Bentley. Accessed via Project Gutenberg: https://www.gutenberg.org/files/54693/54693-h/54693-h.htm
[2] Reference to 'bread in quantity of about a quarter loaf', Old Bailey trial proceedings of Elizabeth Canning, 24th April 1754. https://www.oldbaileyonline.org/browse.jsp?id=t17540424-60&div=t17540424-60&terms=pocket_chicken#highlight
[3] Burman and Fennetaux, p. 126. 'Even the butcher's wife needed to hitch her skirt out of the mud, change her cap or adjust her neckerchief. These daily concerns help to explain why many women stowed clothing and accessories in their pockets, though garments might also be used - as we have seen- to wrap up small items for safekeeping there.'
See also: Old Bailey trial proceedings for Hannah Stevens, 1st July 1807 'Seventeen pair of gloves, and three pair of stockings; I saw her pull them from her pocket, the stockings were black worsted, the same as she had bought.'. https://www.oldbaileyonline.org/browse.jsp?div=t18070701-56
[4] 'the boy said he saw [the fowl] drop out of my pocket.' Old Bailey trial proceedings of Ann Howard, 14th September 1808. https://www.oldbaileyonline.org/browse.jsp?id=t18080914-131&div=t18080914-131&terms=pocket_chicken#highlight
[5] “Dangerous Coats” by Sharon Owens. This poem is not physically published but is believed to have first been shared via the author’s twitter feed. https://www.penguin.co.uk/authors/30903/sharon-owens.html?tab=penguin-biography
[6] Maître du cardinal de Bourbon, p. 96r
[7] Maître du cardinal de Bourbon, p. 95r
[8] Maître du cardinal de Bourbon, p. 101r
[9] Maître du cardinal de Bourbon, p. 98r
[10] Maître du cardinal de Bourbon, p. 100r
[11] 'By the end of the seventeenth century, men already enjoyed a well-established tradition for integrated, firmly sewn-in pockets in their lined, stiffened and warmly padded sets of garments.' Burman and Fennetaux, p. 23. See also for a detailed constructional study of a pair of men's c. 1618 trunk hose: '17th Century Men's Dress Patterns' p. 70-79.
[12] 6. Set of doublet and trunk hose, made c. 1618. The Victoria and Albert Museum, https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O356786/doublet-and-trunk-unknown/
[13] P. 152. Banner, Bertha. 'Household Sewing With Home Dressmaking'. London, 1898. https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=IhMlyt7IuGsC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Household+sewing+with+home+dressmaking&hl=en&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=snippet&q=complete&f=false
[14] Maître du cardinal de Bourbon, p. 1. 91v
[15] Pocket, c. 1784, made by Matilda Cook (American). Historic Deerfield. Accession no. (2008.4.9) & (HD 2008.4.9) & Historic Northampton (01.202). http://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?museum=all&t=objects&type=all&f=&s=pocket&record=64
[16] Pocket, single, embroidered. Late 1800s. York Castle Museum, accession no. YORCM:BA260. https://vads.ac.uk/digital/collection/POCKETS/id/838
[17] Pockets, cotton. Amgueddfa Cymru — National Museum Wales, accession no. 47.132.9-10. https://museum.wales/collections/online/object/7516d1fb-0363-3001-afce-559472676663/Pocket/
[18] Pocket, single. 1800s. Amgueddfa Cymru, Sain Ffagan, Caerdydd/National Museum Wales St Fagans/Cardiff, accession no. 60.504. https://www.vads.ac.uk/digital/collection/POCKETS/id/367/rec/146
[19] Pocket, cotton. Amgueddfa Cymru — National Museum Wales, accession no. 59.285.9. https://museum.wales/collections/online/object/213768dc-40d7-3891-b7b3-3d52f5719599/Pocket/
[20] “Two Ladies’ Pieced Cotton Calico Pockets, 19th C.”. Sold at Whitaker Auction Co. https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/13702352_483-two-ladies-pieced-cotton-calico-pockets-19th-c
[21] Pocket, American, 1800-1825. Historic Deerfield, accession no. HD 2000.20.5 http://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?museum=all&t=objects&type=all&f=&s=pocket&record=32
[22] Initialled pocket, 1762. Sold at New Haven Auctions. https://www.bidsquare.com/online-auctions/new-haven-auctions/fine-early-needlework-apron---1762-2155072
[23] Pair of Pockets, English, made 1700-1725. The Victoria and Albert Museum, accession no. CIRC.86, 87-1938. http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O107962/pair-of-pockets-unknown/
[24] Pocket, English, early 18th century. Museum of Fine Arts Boston, accession no. 53.521. https://collections.mfa.org/objects/112116/pocket
[25] “Early Likely 18th Century Embroidery Pocket”. Sold by Ron Rhoads Auctioneers. https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/89578692_early-likely-18th-century-embroidery-pocket
[26] Pocket, French, 1740 - 1760. Manchester Art Gallery, accession no. 1922.2150/2. https://manchesterartgallery.org/collections/title/?mag-object-22390
[27] Gillray, James. “Sophia, Honour, and the Chambermaid”. London, 1780. The National Portrait Gallery, accession no. NPG D12286 https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw61034/Sophia-Honour-and-the-Chambermaid
[28] Pocket, single, mid - late 1800s. Costume and Textile Study Centre, Carrow House, Norwich, accession no. NWHCM.1982.259.5. https://www.vads.ac.uk/digital/collection/POCKETS/id/141
[29] “Asylum for the Deaf” by John Collet, 1760. The Victoria and Albert Museum, accession no. E.213/87N. https://www.vads.ac.uk/digital/collection/POCKETS/id/65
[30] “Going to the Fair” by Thomas Webster, 1837. The Victoria and Albert Museum, accession no. FA220. https://www.vads.ac.uk/digital/collection/POCKETS/id/79
[31] “Croquis Parisiens” by Beaumont, Charles-Edouard de (entre 1819 et 1821 - Paris, 13–01–1888), dessinateur-lithographe. Musée Carnevalet, Histoire de Paris, accession no. G.9927. https://www.parismuseescollections.paris.fr/fr/musee-carnavalet/oeuvres/croquis-parisiens#infos-principales
[32] 4. Pocket, probably 18th c. Pook & Pook Inc. Auctions. https://pookandpook.com/lot/early-chester-county-pennsylvania-crewelwork-pock-3113788
[33] Humphrey, William. “Tight Lacing”. London, 1777. The British Museum, accession no. 1869,1211.56. https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1869-1211-56
[34] “Rare Mackerel: Twelve London Cries done from the Life, Part 1st” by Paul Sandby. London, 1760. The British Museum, accession no. 1904,0819.567. https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1904-0819-567
[35] “Fresh Gathered Peas, Young Hastings. The Cries of London, Plate 7” by Giovanni Vendramini. London, 1795. Yale Center for British Art, accession no. B1974.12.8. https://collections.britishart.yale.edu/catalog/tms:23445
[36] Gillray, James, “Frying Sprats”. London, 1791. Colonial Williamsburg, accession no. 1957-32. https://emuseum.history.org/objects/14086/frying-sprats?ctx=bfcf3ad0a60d420332af8cf75851efac476ee44a&idx=145#
[37] Robe à la Française, ca. 1765. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no. 2001.472a, b. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83094
[38] Court Dress, ca. 1750. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no. C.I.65.13.1a–c. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82426
[39] 2. Pocket hoops, c. 1770. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, accession no. T2479. https://objektkatalog.gnm.de/wisski/navigate/123291/view
[40] For examples, see stays featured in Patterns of Fashion 5, pages 84-91
[41] Pannier, England, 1750 - 1780. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, accession no. M.2007.211.353. https://collections.lacma.org/node/214117
[42] Panniers, 1760 - 70. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no. 2008.297a, b. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/139668
[43] Panniers, c. 1760, British. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no. 1973.65.2. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83186
[44] “Les Adieux, from Le Monument du Costume” after Jean Michel Moreau the Younger, engraved by Robert de Launay, 1777. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no. 34.22.1. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/364281
[45] "Strawberries scarlet strawberries: Cries of London" made by Giovanni Vendramini after Francis Wheatley. London, 1795. The British Museum, accession no. 1940,1109.88. https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_1940-1109-88
[46] "Fashionable Spring Walking Dresses" fashion plate, unknown artist, June 1808. The Victoria and Albert Museum, accession no. E.2456-1888. http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1109348/fashionable-spring-walking-dresses-fashion-plate-unknown/
[47] "London Dresses for September" fashion plate, unknown artist, 1809. The Victoria and Albert Museum, accession no. E.21735-1957 https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O577655/fashion-plate-unknown/
[48] "Evening Full Dress" fashion plate, unknown artist, 1812. The Victoria and Albert Museum, accession no. E.21736-1957. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O577654/fashion-plate-unknown/
[49] "London Fashionable Walking of Full Dress" fashion plate, London, 1800-10. From The Lady's Magazine, published by G.G.J. and J. Robinson, London. The Victoria and Albert Museum, accession no. E.725-1966. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O695559/fashion-plate-unknown/
[50] "Women's Pockets." The Gentlewoman and Modern Life, vol. XXXIII, no. 849, 1906, p. LXX. Nineteenth Century Collections Online, https://go-gale-com.i.ezproxy.nypl.org/ps/retrieve.do?tabID=Newspapers&resultListType=RESULT_LIST&searchResultsType=SingleTab&hitCount=81477&searchType=AdvancedSearchForm¤tPosition=28&docId=GALE%7CVFQNOG193469098&docType=Essay&sort=Relevance&contentSegment=ZCEI&prodId=NCCO&pageNum=2&contentSet=GALE%7CVFQNOG193469098&searchId=R4&userGroupName=nypl&inPS=true. Accessed 29 Mar. 2021.
[51] "Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manners of the English". London, 1813. https://archive.org/details/picturesquerepre00alex/page/n9/mode/2up?view=theater "Female Shrimper" (p. 28), "Billingsgate Fish-Woman" (p. 52), "Milk-Maid" (p. 68).
[52] "The Fashions of the Day – or Time Past and Time Present: The Year (1740) a Lady's Full Dress of Bombazeen – The Year (1808) Lady's Undress of Bum-be-seen" ca. 1808. Anonymous, Irish, 19th century. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no. 67.539.67. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/392524
See also: extant Regency pocket example from the Worthington Museum and Art Gallery (accession no. WMAG.66.891) on Burman & Fenetaux, p. 38
[53] Plate 10, pg. 322. A Lady, "The Workwoman's Guide, Containing Instructions to the Inexperienced in Cutting Out and Completing Those Articles of Wearing Apparel, &c., which are Usually Made at Home: Also, Explanations on Upholstery, Straw-platting, Bonnet-making, Knitting, &c". London, 1840. https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover&pg=GBS.PP9
See also the instruction on pockets on page 73 which describes pockets as being tied round the waist, and only petticoats having pockets sewn into them.
[54] 1893-1894, Plate 071. The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no. b17520939. https://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p15324coll12/id/9223/rec/12
[55] 1893-1894, Plate 118. The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no. b17520939. https://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p15324coll12/id/9270/rec/29
[56] Bustle skirt, c. 1880s, from the personal collection of Abby Cox.
[57] "A Plea for Pockets." Methodist, 22 Mar. 1879, p. 3. Nineteenth Century Collections Online, https://go-gale-com.i.ezproxy.nypl.org/ps/retrieve.do?tabID=Newspapers&resultListType=RESULT_LIST&searchResultsType=SingleTab&hitCount=81477&searchType=AdvancedSearchForm¤tPosition=20&docId=GALE%7CDRNZFO314534076&docType=Editorial&sort=Relevance&contentSegment=ZCEB&prodId=NCCO&pageNum=1&contentSet=GALE%7CDRNZFO314534076&searchId=R4&userGroupName=nypl&inPS=true. Accessed 29 Mar. 2021.
[58] Elizabeth Cady Stanton: "The Pocket Problem", Utica Sunday Journal, May 26 1895; “A Trailing Dress and No Pocket”, The Woman’s Journal, June 24 1899; "Make Pockets Unto Yourselves", Geneva NY Advertiser, January 22 1901.
[59] "Portrait of J. B. Belley, Deputy for Saint-Domingue" by Anne-Louise Girodet de Roussey Trioson, 1797. Museum of the History of France, accession no. MV 4616, INV 4962 and LP 105, via Wikimedia Commons. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Anne-Louis_Girodet_De_Roucy-Trioson_-_Portrait_of_J._B._Belley,_Deputy_for_Saint-Domingue_-_WGA09508.jpg
[60] "Portrait of Pierre Sériziat" by Jacques-Louis David, 1795. The Louvre Museum, accession no. RF 1281, via Wikimedia Commons. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Seriziat.jpg
[61] 18th century men's embroidered waistcoat, in the personal collection of Zack Pinsent / Pinsent Tailoring. Footage used with permission. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQRHCURC5I8